Driving tour of Buffalo
6:03 p.m. || 07.19.04

I love articles written by out-of-towners and their experiences in Buffalo and the surrounding area... Here's the most recent, in today's Buffalo News.

Driving tour uncovers good, bad and the tasty by Don Stuart

EDITOR'S NOTE: This is the fourth in an occasional series in which the author shares his experiences about trying to move from Michigan to Western New York.

A wise old Buffalonian once told me, "Sonny, you can't stuff 10 pounds of beef on weck into a 5-pound bag."

That pretty much describes today's story. I keep rewriting it, and every time it's several dozen words longer. Too much beef, not enough weck.

The topic is my "Day of Immersion" in Buffalo. No, not a plunge into Orchard Park's Green Lake or a dip in Tonawanda Creek or even a leap into Key Fountain. Though I was tempted by all three on my journey, which took place July 4, a most hot and sticky day.

By immersion I mean that I drove and strolled all over Buffalo, talking with bystanders and deftly avoiding accidents while consulting my "Buffalo - With Downtown Enlargement" map.

My goal: to get better acquainted with the people and communities of the Queen City. My itinerary was crafted around the dozens of e-mails people have sent, touting various towns and neighborhoods. (Thank you, e-mailers; my Buffalo knowledge has experienced significant enlargement.)

I traveled solo all day, while my family relaxed with friends on a boat off Grand Island. They never left the dock because of the winds, but still, they were off Grand Island.

I'll begin. This rapid-fire replay is modeled on the "See the Louvre in 22 minutes!" technique:

Meandered northward from my in-laws' place in Elma. Passed Ja Fa Fa Hots and the Buffalo Drive-In Theater in Cheektowaga; both look like Ja Fun Fun hangouts, and there's nothing like 'em where I live.

A change of scenery on Harlem Road: loads of trees where it meets Wehrle, but mostly on the Amherst side. Keep an eye on your trees, Cheektowagans - looks like they're relocating to Amherst.

Explored tidy Eggertsville (touted by Bill M. and Judy W.) and peppered two Lennox Avenue residents with questions. Eggertsville is "quiet and safe," they said, and conveniently located. Buffalo is "well-rounded," with everything they could want. Figured I'd overstayed my welcome when one guy mentioned his 8-year-old takes tae kwon do, and would I like to see a few moves?

Followed Sweeney Street in North Tonawanda to the North Tonawanda Botanical Gardens. Talked to a guy preparing to kayak Tonawanda Creek with his son. A returnee to Buffalo after a couple years away. Adamant he wouldn't live anywhere else. Loves the seasons, loves the great people. Not sure he loves strangers delaying his kayaking.

Wheatfield (touted by Kris C.) appears wheat-field-free. Chatted with owners of produce stand on St. Johnsburg Road. Loyal as the Eggerts-heads and the kayaker; "wouldn't live anywhere else" - and definitely not in Erie County - and no community even rates "second place," except maybe Cambria and Wilson (which are towns, and not, as I first thought, personal-injury lawyers I'd seen on a billboard).

Talked to ladies working at a North Tonawanda service station. One called Buffalo a "dirty city," and she preferred Niagara County. Another disagreed - said Niagara Countians are "snobbier" than Erie Countians. To defuse tensions, asked where to find good beef on weck.

Checked out waterfront extensively. Gratwick Park a decent green space but also seems to have lost its trees (my advice to North Tonawandans - interrogate Amherst).

At Fisherman's Park on River Road, talked to - yup - a fisherman. A lifelong Buffalonian, he didn't mention beef on weck, but he did have a beef on work: finds job opportunities too limited in Buffalo. But he stays, for family, for changing seasons, for fishing, which his girlfriend was doing better - she caught one while we talked.

Stumbled onto something called the Riverwalk. Quite nice in Tonawanda. Heading toward the city (how do I say this politely?), its, um, aesthetic values diminish.

Chatted with folks at Riverside Park, including family about to move to Florida (to escape winter) and Western New York native recently returned from Austin, Texas. Input aplenty: Teens enjoy the Walden Galleria; Buffalo's cost of living and housing values trounce Austin's; all Buffalo restaurants goooood ("We've gained 20 pounds each!"); abundant music and theater. Thinks local economy, um, inhales with pursed lips.

Noshed tacos along cute Elmwood strip (touted by Ted K. and Mark S.). Interesting shops and ambience - nothing like it in our part of Michigan. Must keep wife away. Witnessed priceless yuppie moment: two preppily dressed guys left top down on snazzy convertible but locked doors.

Downtown Buffalo, 2:05 p.m., July 4 - streets really quiet. A few thirsty folks at sidewalk tables on Chip strip (sound like a native, don't I?). Crowds just gathering for free Goo Goo Dolls concert. Chatted with lady heading home to Lackawanna from her downtown job. Said downtown usually pretty empty Sundays. Said she avoids downtown at night for safety fears. Advised her to contact 8-year-old tae kwon do expert in Eggertsville.

Cruised the Erie Basin Marina and LaSalle Park - is that it for public waterfront downtown? Road through LaSalle Park a rough one - must date to Fred Olmsted's day.

To South Buffalo (touted by Marilyn M.). Neat homes, yards and streets. Chatted on front porch of friendly couple brimming with South Buffalo enthusiasm. Raved about friendly neighbors, wonderful restaurants, the sports/arts/museum scene, South Buffalo's low taxes and great housing values. Discovered the fella was a retired salesman. Still has the touch - could have sold me his half-eaten beef on weck.

"Discovered" the Buffalo & Erie County Botanical Gardens on South Park - loverly! Nearby Woodlawn Beach may also be loverly, but entrance sure lacks, um, curb appeal.

Found Hamburg (touted by Kathy W.) pleasantly villagey. Hungry, but bypassed burgers made by Hamburg burghers to find Angola-on-the-Lake/Evans/Derby. Not sure which I found - seems they're all fused together. Did find Sturgeon Point Marina; can verify hot dogs at Connors (touted by Kris P.) are very tasty.

Meandered back to Elma. Raining hard by then, so mainly saw people scurrying around Yates Park in Orchard Park (touted by Mary M.) and Como Lake Park in Lancaster (touted, second to Clarence, by Karen W.); everyone carrying umbrellas (or were those small trees stolen from Cheektowaga?).

In summary, I saw and learned a lot. But there's much more to explore: Mike K.'s Grand Island; Sarah S.'s Alden; Norma Joanna C.'s Lewiston; all the places mentioned by Delaware Park's Jeff W.; and the home of "Bachelorette" guy Chad Schlee's mom, where he invited us to stay, suggesting it could be a sort of "Eight Is Enough" experience. (Really.)

I'm out of breath from being immersed so long, so it's your turn again: Did I learn meaningful things? Was I shortsighted or unfair? How and where should I further immerse? And should I try any more "beef on work" jokes in future articles?

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